From the depths of the store wafted a spicy flowery aroma, which penetrated deep into my clothing, hair and skin leaving a subtle trail following behind for days after. I closed my eyes and breathed in the pungent heady fragrance before even entering the store. From the doorway, streaks of bright delicate yellow lighting dangled from the ceiling, exposing a treasure chest of glorious silken Persian rugs.
The store was narrow, maybe 12 feet at the widest point and deep. A door, beautifully sculpted and shaped like an image from an Ali Baba story, stood seductively hidden at the rear wall by an earthy red curtain draped over the top edge of the door. As space was a premium in the store confines, practically every inch of wall, corner and floor space was utilized in the display of merchandise.
A small 30 X 18 inch silken rug, glistening in deep cobalt blue, its smooth texture as soft as oil hung at eye level from the wall just inside the door. The keeper of the shop was a middle-aged man wearing western clothes and sporting a wiry lightly graying moustache with a tanned deeply lined complexion. The exquisite depth of color in that small rug, magnetized my gaze and immediately I heard the Kuwaiti accented English voice announce a price. ‘28 Dinar“, approximately $84 US dollars. I have always regretted it but as this was the first stop on the tour of downtown Kuwait City; I decided to try my luck further on.
The semi-crowded narrow market streets of the City, shielded architectural secrets cloaked in layers of old paint and modern signs. An abundance of beautiful old cracked buildings, typical in Arabic design lined the dusty darkened alleyways and screamed heroic quests and adventure to me. Sparkling displays of golden idols and jewelry shone through window after window, pouring yellow lighting onto whole sections of the street. I was grateful to be accompanied by a Kuwaiti friend acting as guide and at times negotiator. He dressed in traditional Kuwaiti men’s attire, a dishdasha, a flowing white robe with gutra headdress and an ogal, a black twisted cord that secures the gutra. I felt like I was being given a private tour of the city by the crown prince himself.
The allure of gold was soon replaced by the aroma of sumptuous Kuwaiti cuisine, at an outdoor square surrounded by rustic buildings, smoking houses, coffee houses, sellers of fresh food products and restaurants crowded with patrons. Our guide ordered dish after tantalizing dish. Hummus, khubus (unleavened bread), kababs with yogurt, saffron garnished rice, almond cookies and pastries with syrup. Served alongside the rich assortment of foods was the traditional water pipe called a shisha packed with apple tobacco. Although on a different continent, I could not help but compare the situation to that of the movie ‘Casablanca’ and the scenes in ‘The Blue Parrot’ between Sydney Greenstreet and Humphrey Bogart.
To have a personal guide was invaluable as not only is three days a very short time to get accustomed to a city-scape, but certain rules were in place and expected to be followed in respect to the holy month of Ramadan. Breaking these rules was a violation of local laws and could lead to arrest.
On several occasions, members of our group were warned about the rules for foreigners during this holy time. Recreational activity such as jogging was forbidden during the daylight hours, and the Official Ramadan Police stopped a group member for this offence. Another member was ordered to stop smoking within public view. Other forbidden activities during this period were eating or drinking in public (including water), chewing gum, and any pleasurable activity. We were however allowed to swim in the ocean and sunbathe on the beach. Whether the authorities were purely tolerating us, I will never know, but at no time were we pressured or condemned for these activities.
The beach at the Hilton Resort Hotel where we stayed was manually swept early each morning to erase any evidence of human activity. Every day I would walk from the villa, through the ocean salted air and along the sun blessed pristine off white sand of the Kuwaiti Gulf coast, to the majesty of the breakfast bar and dine like Lawrence of Arabia himself.
By evening, an excited energy coursed through the air, as huge feasts were prepared for the fasting masses. The sun slowly descended towards the horizon, igniting streaks of gold across the sky and setting the surface of the Persian Gulf on fire. The sumptuous banquet awaiting us was held in a grand marquee situated within feet of the cream sand and warm gulf swells. The illusion was that of being treated like a wealthy sheikh. The marquee’s interior was decorated in a deep antique red with soft flowing silken strips and elaborately patterned cushions in varying shades of reds, blues, purples and yellows. Hand carved furniture littered the interior walls, worn soft over the years by the touch of hungry satisfied and dazzled travelers.
The food for our gourmet feast was served under sparkling silver dishes in the center of this palatial setting. An incredible variety of Kuwaiti, Middle Eastern and Asian cuisine’s filled the air. There were delicate and heady aromas of meats, beef and chicken with yogurt, rice kabsa, stews, marinated lamb and grilled fish all cooked in spicy thick sauces, stuffed and roasted vegetables, spiced and garnished rice, hummus, tabooleh, falafel, aromatic chick pea and an assortment of fresh hot breads. At the far end of the banquet, sweet fragrant deserts took siege of our senses. Sweet rice pudding, fresh fruits, date and nut sweets, cookies and figs in syrup. The exceptional quality of the food and the elegance of the surroundings made the evenings an unforgettable source of splendor.
Throughout my short time in Kuwait, I was surprised to see such a melting pot of cultures and traditional and modern fashions presented so openly. There were women dressed in short skirts, t-shirts and modern hair styles walking along the same street as woman dressed in the more traditional abaya, a full length black silk cloak with a burga, a short veil covering the face. On occasion, I would see the burkah, with the beautifully crafted latticed embroidered face piece, commonly associated in the west with female Arabic attire.
The holy month of Ramadan is taken very seriously in Kuwait. For a Muslim, strict adherence to fasting between sunrise and sunset is required. By sundown, the city is filled with hungry, thirsty and possibly short-tempered and tired commuters eager to return home for the evening feast. This is a time where vehicular accidents spike and as a group, we were all advised to be off the roads by sunset for that reason.
I have traveled extensively to many areas of the world and found during my stay that Kuwait is a vibrant, beautiful country with a courteous, charming and non-threatening atmosphere throughout. I would recommend to anyone to explore and experience how stunning and memorable Kuwait really is. The only complaint I have is that I could not have stayed longer.
